沖浪(Surfing)——歐美有史以來十大強項

沖浪(Surfing)——歐美有史以來十大強項在《歐美有史以來十大強項》中排名第31名。我們精選了部分網友觀點： ...

沖浪歐美有史以來十大強項在歐美有史以來十大強項中排名第31名。

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我們精選了部分網友觀點：

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我所做的幾乎每一個其他體育運動,但現在我做混合武術和沖浪。沒有人知道沖浪是什么樣子。我沖浪在35度與雙頂浪水。如果你不使下拉波得到一生的重擊與冷凍水沖洗你的潛水服。不是任何人可以劃船。它是如此容易體溫過低,只需要30分鐘死。也有沖浪的人50英尺的海浪和超級鋒利的珊瑚礁。人死,只需要一個。你可以在幾分鐘。

I've done almost every other sport but right now I do mixed martial arts and surfing. Nobody has any idea what surfing is like. I surf in 35 degree water with double overhead waves. If you do not make the drop down the wave then you get the pounding of a lifetime with freezing water flushing through your wetsuit. Not anybody can just paddle out there. It is so easy to get hypothermia out there and it only takes 30 minutes to die. Also there are the people who surf 50 foot waves and up over super sharp coral reefs. People die all the time and it just takes one fall. You can be held under for minutes at a time.